Expressive eyebrows – one of the main facial features that can balance proportions and make the image stylish and attractive. Of course, provided that they have the correct shape and are beautifully laid out. Eyebrow architecture helps achieve this result. For eyebrow masters, this technique is one of the main ones in their work, so it is important to study it in detail and understand the nuances.
What is eyebrow architecture
This term means creating a form using different techniques and methods. These include:
- density correction – removing excess hair using thread, wax, tweezers;
- coloring. Use henna or eyebrow dye;
- permanent makeup.
Understanding what eyebrow architecture is, it may seem that there is nothing complicated in the process. You just need to remove the hairs and tint your eyebrows. But in fact, it is very important not only to be able to draw a shape, but to create it taking into account the type of face so that all features look harmonious. This is a whole science that includes many subtleties and requires the master to have knowledge and understanding of how to work correctly. The theory of eyebrow architecture includes many provisions and nuances, let's look at all the main points step by step.
What are eyebrows made of
At first glance, it is not clear what the components may be. But eyebrows are conventionally divided into 2 parts. The first – to the break (body), second – after the break (tail).
With the correct proportion, the first part should be 2/3 of the entire length of the eyebrow, and the second – 1/3. Moreover, the body may be larger, but the tail – maximum 1/3. Otherwise, you will get the effect of tired or sad eyes. These proportions must be observed when constructing architecture and creating the shape of the eyebrow.
Basic requirements for symmetry
The eyebrows are located on part of the frontal bone – brow ridge. They conditionally divide the face into the upper and middle thirds. In this case, the face itself is usually divided into 3 parts:
- first – from the hairline to the eyebrows;
- second – from the tip of the nose to the eyebrows;
- third – from the tip of the nose to the edge of the chin.
According to the rule of the golden ratio, these three parts should be equal, but such a proportion is not always observed. Because of this, it is sometimes difficult to create the correct eyebrow shape. And in such cases, science comes to the rescue – symmetry. For eyebrows, it is determined in two planes: vertically and horizontally.
Vertical symmetry is determined by three distances: from the center of the forehead to the beginning of the eyebrow, to the bend (ideally should be located along the outer edge of the iris) and to the tip. They should be the same on both sides. If there are differences, this indicates vertical asymmetry.
Horizontal symmetry is determined by the top of the eyebrows. The upper bending points should be located on the same line while maintaining ideal proportions. But this rarely happens in life, so usually craftsmen have to deal with horizontal asymmetry.
Inconsistencies in symmetry cause uneven shapes and also complicate the design of eyebrows. To visually align them, balance the proportions of the face, and create beautiful, neat outlines when making up, coloring or permanent hair, they resort to such a technique as architecture. To perform it you need to know some subtleties and rules.
Step-by-step construction of eyebrow architecture
Having understood the concept of symmetry, you can begin to create a form. At this stage, the eyebrow points are determined along which the entire outline will be built. There are three main ones: the beginning, the bend and the end. Eyebrow architecture will help you figure out step by step how to work correctly.
First step: determine the beginning of the eyebrow
All eyebrow architecture diagrams begin with finding the starting point. You can identify it by its nose. Use a brush or pencil for this. They are applied vertically to the inner corner of the wings of the nose. It is along this line at the level of the eyebrow that they should begin. Having determined the beginning, you can begin further construction.
Second step: defining the arc
This is the second stage. The arc allows you to give expressiveness to your eyes. When constructing, they also use a brush or pencil. They are applied so that the rod passes over the iris through the center of the inner corner of the nose. At the point where this line intersects with the eyebrow – the peak of the arc should be located, which forms the bend.
Important: the arches usually extend slightly above the natural eyebrow line.
Third step: determining the end of the eyebrow
To find the place where the eyebrow should end, a brush or pencil must be applied so that it touches the outer edge of the nose, crossing the outer corner of the eye. The place on the edge of the brow ridge where the rod passes is the area where the eyebrow ends.
After the main points have been determined, the eyebrows are marked with thread or pencil. Drawing lines allows you to set the desired shape and size.
Fourth step: determine the thickness
Marking the eyebrows also includes choosing the width. It depends primarily on the type of person, and the client’s preferences are also taken into account. To set the desired width – You should draw a contour along the hair growth line or slightly beyond it.
Fifth step: highlight and fill in the eyebrow
In order to set the desired tone and fill the voids, various cosmetics and techniques are used:
- permanent makeup;
- decorative cosmetics;
- paint.
When using a pencil or eye shadow, you should try to make short, soft strokes in the direction of hair growth. This will give you a more natural result.
The architecture of the eyebrows with paint or henna helps to emphasize the shape, give the desired shade, and at the same time provides a long-lasting effect. It is especially recommended to use this technique for girls with light or sparse eyebrows, as well as women with gray hair. The result lasts up to 2-3 weeks
Filling with color allows you to hide bald spots and gaps, gives visual density and uniformity of color. But it is important to apply the pigment correctly. You need to soften the end and beginning of the eyebrow, while emphasizing the arch, this way you can get a natural effect.
What tools are needed for eyebrow architecture
When working with eyebrows, the artist needs a whole arsenal of available tools and accessories. The main ones include the following tools and materials:
- eyebrow tweezers;
- hair cutting scissors;
- brush for shadows, paints;
- gels, waxes that help give hair the desired direction, fix the shape, and ensure long-term styling.
You also need thread for marking or special paste, pencil. They are necessary for drawing lines when building architecture and creating forms.
Eyebrow architecture depending on face type
When creating a form, the master is faced with the task of not only satisfying the client’s request, but also making sure that all the features are harmoniously combined. The architecture of the eyebrows is selected individually to suit the shape of the face, taking into account the basic proportions and other features. To make it easier to determine the type of arch, you can focus on general recommendations for different face shapes:
- Oval. This type is considered universal; any architecture is suitable for it.
- Square. For a face with this shape, it is better to choose a soft, slightly rounded arch of eyebrows; straight ones can make the appearance rougher.
- Circle. Vertical, elongated eyebrows look good on round faces. Additionally, you can visually stretch the proportions by creating a higher arch.
- Triangle. For such a face, you need eyebrows with a slightly rounded, smooth shape. They should not be thin, otherwise the perception of the width of the lower part of the face will be visually enhanced.
- Rhombus. With this face shape, it is necessary to avoid sharp angles in the process of creating eyebrow architecture.
In this case, you should definitely focus on other facial features, build the architecture so that the center line of the eyebrow passes through the three main points, the definition of which we wrote above.
How does eyebrow architecture differ from correction and modeling
This is one of the most common questions among beginner brow masters. The difference between them is the result.
Eyebrow modeling (or correction) – it's about creating a neater look based on a natural shape. In this case, techniques are used to remove excess hair and coloring.
Architecture allows you to create any desired shape. That is, a sketch of the eyebrows is created on the face in a new outline, observing proportion and symmetry, after which the voids are filled with color, and the shape is fixed.